1. SW crash every several weeks: bad firmware, probably memory leak
If your ICF-CL75iP experiences a software crash about once a month, roughly, then perhaps the firmware hasn't been updated to Version 1.10 (one point ten).
Check with HOME, General Settings (bottom right), down to 'Unit information', look for S/W Version. Should be 1.10 (or higher, which is unlikely).
Earlier versions of firmware seemed to have a memory leak causing software crashes every few weeks. With the Version 1.10 firmware, my two examples have been stable.
The Sony website Support page offers the firmware and instructions. You'll need an SD card.
Sony Canada for example:
https://www.sony.ca/en/electronics/support/radios-clock-radios/icf-cl75ip/downloads/W0007047
2. Battery icon will not turn off, even with fresh CR2032
Incomplete instructions from Sony.
You'll need to press the HOME button first, to show the Home screen with the ten icons.
Only then press HOME + DISPLAY at the same time, and hold for a few seconds.
Assuming the button cell is okay, this should reset the battery icon.
3. Cannot set clock, date stays 2009, clock stuck and won't advance
Sorry to say, it might need disassembly and minor repair.
See: https://hackaday.io/project/9915-repairing-a-sony-dream-machine-icf-cl75ip
This minor repair requires some skill and care, both for disassembly but also the very careful scraping and chipping off of the hardened brown goop.
If you do try this repair, then carefully read the comments on the Hackaday post, especially about the zero insertion force connector and how to open it. The large silver shielded ribbon cable to the display is actually easy to (dis)connect if you do it properly by opening up the tiny (but wide) dark lever.
Removing the hard goop from the crystal and PCB is more like scraping and chipping than dissolving. 70% alcohol helps, but you'll probably need a tiny knife and picks. Beware damaging anything. Very tricky if you're not used to this sort of intricate work!
There's a small SMD capacitor (?) right next to the 'RP14' SMD resistor pack, both just above the crystal. So don't dig too hard in this area until you find it. There's also one or more "large" (not really) solder vias.
It can take a good hour just for the cleaning stage. It's like chipping away a blob of poor Bakelite.
After the cleaning and reassembly, do not panic if it's not immediately working correctly. Give it an hour or more to warm up and dry off (i.e. your cleaning alcohol). One of mine needed an hour to dry out, the other was good immediately.
There's a 'Reset all settings' function under 'General Settings' if you think that it might help.
Here is what the goop looks like (image below).
Reportedly, it is slightly conductive, which is what causes the problem. Both of mine failed during a 19-hour power outage; presumably the cool down caused the final step of the failure process.
I successfully fixed two of two. Both are now working normally.
